Tartan (Scottish Gaelic: breacan ['b ??? xk? n] ) is a pattern consisting of horizontal and vertical bands crossing in multiple colors. Tartan comes from woven wool, but is now made in many other materials. Tartan is mainly associated with Scotland. Scottish kilt almost always has a tartan pattern. Tartan is often called boxes in North America, but in Scotland, boxes are tartan cloth draped over the shoulder as an accessory for a kilt, or a regular blanket like the one on a bed.
Tartan is made with alternating colored yarn bands (pre-dyed) woven as a snap and feed on the corners of the elbows to each other. The feed is woven with simple pieces, two above two below the warp, pushing one thread on each lane. It forms diagonal lines seen where different colors cross each other, giving the appearance of new colors mixed from the original color. The resulting color blocks repeat vertically and horizontally in a squared pattern and a distinctive line known as sett .
The Dress Act of 1746 seeks to bring the warrior clan under government control by banning tartan and other aspects of Gaelic culture. When the law was lifted in 1782, it was no longer an ordinary Highland outfit, but was adopted as a symbolic national dress of Scotland.
Until the mid-nineteenth century, the tartan plateau was only associated with the county or district, rather than a certain Scottish clan. This is because like other materials, tartan designs are produced by local weavers for local tastes and usually only use natural dyes available in the area, because the production of synthetic dyes does not exist and the transportation of other dyes at long distances is very expensive..
The patterns are just different field patterns of the area chosen by the user preferences - in the same way that people today choose what colors and patterns they like in their outfits, without any special reference to propriety. It was not until the mid-nineteenth century that many patterns were created and linked artificially with Scottish clans, families or institutions (or to be seen as) related in some ways to the Scottish heritage. The victoria's penchant for new taxonomy and chemical dye available then means that the idea of ​​special patterns of bright colors, or "clothing" of tartan, can be made and applied to the faux-nostalgic view of Scottish history.
Today the tart is no longer limited to textiles, but it is used on non-woven media, such as paper, plastic, packaging, and wall coverings.
Video Tartan
Etimologi dan terminologi
The English word "tartan" probably comes from the French tartarin which means "Tartar cloth". It has also been suggested that "tartan" may be derived from the Scottish Scottish Gaelic language tarsainn , meaning "transverse". Today "tartan" usually refers to a colored pattern, although initially tartan does not have to consist of any pattern at all. Until the late 1830s, tartan was sometimes described as "plain color... without a pattern". Patterned fabrics from the Scottish-speaking Scottish Highlands are called breacan , meaning many colors. Over time, the meanings of the tartan and breacan were combined to describe a particular pattern type on the type specific fabrics. The pattern of a tartan is called sett . Sett consists of a series of woven yarn crossed at a right angle.
Today tartan is usually used to describe patterns, not limited to textiles. In North America, the term boxes is usually used to describe tartan . The word plaid , is from Scottish Gaelic plaide , meaning "blanket ", was first used for rectangular garments, sometimes made of tartan, especially those that precede modern skirts (see: bonded boxes). In due course, boxes are used to describe the quilt itself. For example in German the word is used as it is and in Hungarian it is adopted as plÃÆ' Â © d .
Maps Tartan
Construction
Every thread in the weft crosses each thread thread in a coil at a right angle. Where the threads in the weft cross the yarn of the same color in the feed, they produce a solid color on the tartan, while the yarn that crosses the other colors produces the same mixture of two colors. Thus, a set of two basic colors produces three different colors including one blend. The total number of colors, including mixtures, increases quadratically with the number of base colors so that a set of six basic colors produces fifteen mixtures and a total of twenty-one different colors. This means that the more lines and colors used, the more tartan and barren the pattern of tartan patterns.
The sequence of strands, known as sett, starts from the edge and repeats or flips on what is called the pivot point. In diagram A , sett reverses on the first pivot, then repeats, then flips on the next pivot, and will proceed this way horizontally. In diagram B , the set reverses and repeats the same way as the warp, and also runs in the same way vertically. The left diagram illustrates a "symmetrical" tartan construction. However, on the tartan "asymmetric", the sett is not reversed on the pivot, it just repeats in the pivot. Also, some tartan (very few) do not have the same settings for warp and weft. This means warp and feed will have an alternate number of threads .
Tartan is recorded by counting the strands of each color that appears on the set. The number of threads not only describes the width of the lines on the sett, but also the colors used. For example, the number of threads "K4 R24 K24 Y4" corresponds to 4 black yarn, 24 red yarn, 24 black thread, 4 yellow thread. The first and last thread of the total thread is the pivot point. Although the number of threads is very specific, they can be modified under certain circumstances, depending on the size of tartan desired. For example, a tartan finish (about 6 inches) may be too large to fit on a tie face. In this case the number of threads should be reduced in proportion (about 3 inches).
Color: gradation and meaning
Shades of tartan colors can be changed to produce the same tartan variation. The resulting variations are called: modern , outdated , and muted . These terms refer to color alone. Modern represents tartan colored using chemical dyes, as opposed to natural dyes. In the mid-19th century natural dyes began to be replaced by chemical dyes that are easier to use and more economical for the booming tartan industry. Chemical dyes tend to produce a very strong dark color compared to natural dyes. In modern colors, the sets consist of blue, black and green tend to be obfuscated. Ancient refers to the lighter tartan color. These colors are meant to represent the colors that will result from the aging of the fabric over time. Muted refers to the tartan which is the shadow between the ancient modern and . . This type of tartan is very modern, only dating from the early 1970s. This shade is said to be best suited to the nuances achieved by the natural dyes used before the mid-19th century.
The idea that the various colors used in tartan have a special meaning is purely modern. One such myth is that the red tartan is a "war tartans", designed so that they will not show blood. Recent tartans have been made, such as the provincial and territorial tartan of Canada (early 1950s) and tartan of the US state (early 1980s), designed with a certain symbolic meaning for the colors used. For example, the color of green sometimes symbolizes grassland or forest, blue can symbolize lakes and rivers, and the color yellow is sometimes used to represent the results harvest.
History
Origins
Today tartan is mostly associated with Scotland; However, early evidence of tartan is found far from the British Isles. According to the textile historian E. J. Barber, Hallstatt culture in Central Europe, associated with the ancient Celtic population and developed between the 8th and 6th centuries BC, produces tartan-like textiles. Some of them were discovered in 2004, greatly preserved, in the Hallstatt salt mine near Salzburg, Austria. The textile analysis of the fabric of the Tarim mummy in Xinjiang, northwestern China has also shown it is similar to the Iron Age Hallstatt culture. Tartan-like legends are found on the Cherchen Man, a 3,000-year-old mummy found in the Taklamakan Desert. Similar findings have been made in Central Europe and Scandinavia. The earliest documented tartan in England, known as the tartan "Falkirk", dates from the 3rd century AD. It was found in Falkirk in Stirlingshire, Scotland, about 400 meters northwest of the Antonine Wall. The fragment was inserted into pottery pots containing nearly 2,000 Roman coins. Tartan Falkirk has a simple check design, natural light and dark wool. This early form of tartan was thought to have been discovered in pre-Roman times, and would become popular among the inhabitants of the northern Roman provinces as well as in other parts of Northern Europe such as Jutland, where similar patterns are prevalent.
The tartan as we know it today was not considered to exist in Scotland before the 16th century. At the end of the 16th century there were many references to striped plaques or boxes. It was not until the end of the seventeenth or early eighteenth century that any kind of uniformity in tartan was thought to have taken place. Martin Martin, in Description of the Scottish Isles of Scotland , published in 1703, writes that Scottish tartan can be used to differentiate residents from different regions. He emphatically writes that the inhabitants of the various islands and mainland plains are not all dressed alike, but the setts and colors of the various tartans vary from island to island. Since he does not mention the use of special patterns by individual families, it would seem that such differences are modern.
For centuries the patterns were loosely coupled with the weavers in a particular area, although it was common for the plateau people to wear a number of different tartans at the same time. A charter of 1587 given to Hector Maclean of Duart requires the obligation of feu on land paid as 60 ells of white, black and green fabrics. A witness of 1689 Battle of Killiecrankie describes "McDonnell people in their triple lines". From 1725, government troops from Highland Independent Companies introduced standard tartan selected to avoid association with certain clans, and this was formalized when they became the Black Watch regiment in 1739.
The most effective fighters for Jacobitism are supporters of the Scottish clan, which leads to tartan associations with Jacobite causes. Attempts to placate the Highlands led to the Clothing Act of 1746, banning tartans, except for the British Highland Regiment's Regiment. ? [I] might use those who gave birth to the idea of ​​differentiating tartans by the clan; because the Plateau regiment doubled... then their tartan uniforms were distinguished. "The law was repealed in 1782 due to the efforts of the London Highlands Society William Wilson & the Children of Bannockburn became a leading weaving manufacturer around 1770 as a tartan supplier to the Wilson military corresponding with his agent in the Highlands to obtain information and samples of cloth from the clan districts to enable it to reproduce the "truly original pattern" and record more than 200 setsts in 1822, many of which are temporarily named.Cockburn Collection of named samples made by William Wilson & Sons was united between 1810 and 1820 and now at the Mitchell Library in Glasgow.At this time many setts are only numbered, or given a fantastic name like "Robin Hood". "Tartan, not associated with a particular clan.
In the nineteenth century, the Highland romantic revival, inspired by James Macpherson's Ossian poem and Sir Walter Scott's writings, spawned wider interest, with clubs like the Celtic Society of Edinburgh welcoming Lowlanders. The procession created for King George IV's visit to 1822 to Scotland brought a sudden demand for tartan cloth and made it a national outfit from all over Scotland, not just the Highlands and Islands, with the discovery of many new clan-tailored special tartans.
Royal patronage and craze tartan
The popularity of tartan greatly increased by the visit of the kingdom of George IV to Edinburgh in 1822. George IV was the first king to reign to visit Scotland in 171 years. The celebrations around the event came from Sir Walter Scott who founded the Celtic Society of Edinburgh in 1820. Scott and the Celtic Society urged the citizens of Scotland to attend the celebrations "all patterned and crammed into their tartan arrangement". A contemporary writer sarcastically describes the splendor that surrounds the celebration as "Sir Walter's Celtified Pagentry".
After a royal visit several books documenting tartan added to the madness. The romantic James Logan's The Scottish Gael, published in 1831, is one of the leading publications leading the Scottish tartan industry to create clan tartans. The first publication to show the clan tartans plate was the Vestiarium Scoticum , published in 1842. The Vestiarium is a work of two brothers: John Sobieski and Charles Allen Hay. The brothers, who call themselves St. John Sobieski Stolberg Stuart and Charles Edward Stuart, first appeared in Scotland in 1822. Both claim to be the grandchildren of Prince Charles Edward Stuart and his wife. Princess Louise of Stolberg, and consequently came to be known as "Sobieski Stuarts". The Sobieski Stuart claims that the Vestiarium is based on a copy of an ancient manuscript on clan tartans - a script they never produced. The Vestiarium followed by the same dubious The Costume of the Clans two years later. The romantic enthusiasm created by Logan and Sobieski Stuarts with their publications led the way to other tartan books in the 19th century.
Twenty years after his uncle's visit to Scotland, Queen Victoria and her husband Prince Albert made their first journey to the Scottish Highlands. The Queen and the prince bought Balmoral Palace in 1848 and hired local architects to re-model the estate in the "Scottish Baronial" style. Prince Albert personally takes care of interior design, where he uses tartan very well. She uses red Stewart and Hunting Stewart green tartans for carpets, while using Stewart Dress for curtains and upholstery. The Queen designed tartan Victoria , and Prince Albert Balmoral , still used as a royal tartan today. Victoria and Albert spend considerable time on their land, and by doing many activities "Highland". Victoria was attended by piper and her sons wearing Highland outfits. Prince Albert himself likes watching the Highland game. Ironically, due to the madness of Scotland, Highlanders suffered miserably from Highland Highland, when thousands of Gaelic-speaking Scottish people from the Highlands and Islands were driven out by landlords (in many cases those who would be their clan leaders) to give the way for sheep. Clan tartans
It is generally assumed that "clan tartans" are not earlier than the beginning of the nineteenth century, and are an example of a created tradition. It is maintained by many that the clan tartan was not used at the time of the Battle of Culloden in 1746. The method of identifying friends of the enemy is not through tartans, but by the color of the ribbon worn over the bonnet. The famous painting of David Morier on the Highland charge at the Battle of Culloden shows the clans wearing tartans. All painted paintings are all different from each other and very few are painted showing similarities with tartan clans today. Contemporary portraits show that although tartan is the starting date, the pattern used does not depend on the user clan, but on its location, or personal taste. The idea of ​​a group of men wearing the same tartan was thought to have come from a military unit in the 18th century. The evidence shows that in 1725, Independent Highland Companies may wear tartan uniforms.
The naming and registration of the official clan tartan began on 8 April 1815, when the Highland Society of London (founded 1778) ruled that all respective clan leaders "were respectfully requested to equip the Society with as much of the Tartan of the Godhead as it would serve to Demonstrate Patterns and Authenticate by Attaching There's a Card That Brings Master's Weapon Effects. "Many do not know what their tartan is, but are keen to adhere to and provide original examples that are signed and sealed. Alexander Macdonald, 2 Baron Macdonald of Sleat is so far from the heritage of the High Plains that he wrote to the Society: "Because I do not know what exactly The Macdonald Tartan is, I ask that you will have the virtue to deploy every Means in your power to Get the True Pattern. true As Will Guarantee Me in Authenticating with my Weapons. "
Today tartan and "clan tartan" are an important part of the Scottish clan. Almost all Scottish clans have some tartan associated with their names. Some clans have an "official" tartan. While it may be possible for anyone to create a tartan and name it whatever name they want, the only person with authority to create an "official" clan tartan is the head. In some cases, after such recognition from the tribal chief, the tartan clan was recorded and registered by Lord Lyon King of Arms. After being approved by Lord Lyon, after a recommendation by the Advisory Committee on Tartan, the tartan clan was later recorded at Lyon Court Books. At least in one instance the tartan clan appeared in the tribal chief's emblem and was regarded by Lord Lyon as the "proper" tartan of the clan.
Popular Tartan
It is generally stated that one of the most popular tartans today is the Royal Stewart tartan . This is a private tartan of Queen Elizabeth II. Sett was first published in 1831 in The Scottish Gael by James Logan. In addition to its use in clothing, such as skirts and shawls, Royal Stewart tartan also appears on the tin of biscuits for Scottish short cake.
Another popular tartan is Black Watch (also known as Old Campbell , Grant Hunting , Universal , Government ). Tartan is used and still used by some military units in the British Army and other Commonwealth forces.
Other Tartan
In addition to clan tartans, many tartan patterns have been developed for individuals, families, districts, institutions, and companies. They have also been created for specific events and ethnic groups. Tartan has had a long history with the military and currently many military units - particularly in the Commonwealth - have tartan dress uniforms. Tartans or plaid patterns like tartans are also commonly used as skirts or jumper/pinafores in Catholic school uniforms and other private school uniform codes in North America.
Many regional tartan are officially recognized by government agencies. In Canada, most provinces and territories have official tartan, with a first date from 1956. Canada has an official national tartan originally designed to commemorate the introduction of new maple leaf flags, and was made official national emblem by 2011. Some Canadian districts and municipalities also has official tartan. Many of the US states also have official tartan, with a first date from 1988. In Scotland, at least two local government councils have official tartan.
Tartan is sometimes distinguished from others by the same name as the clothing or hunting label. The tartan dress is based on the earasaid tartans worn by Highland women in the 17th and 18th centuries. Dress tartans tend to be made by replacing prominent colors with white. They are usually used today in Highland dance. Hunting tartans is also a Victorian conception. These tartan tend to consist of soft colors, such as dark blue and green. Regardless of its name, tartan hunting has nothing to do with actual hunting. Tartan fighting, though quite rare, is linked to death and funerals. They are usually designed using a combination of black and white.
The clever Victorian entrepreneur not only created a new tartan, but a new tartan item called tartanware . Tartan is included in a wide variety of common household items, such as snuffboxes, jewelry cases, tableware, sewing accessories, and desk items. Travelers who visit the Scottish Highlands come home with it, and a Scotland-based business sends tartanware as a gift to customers. Some of the more popular tartans are Stewart , McDonald , McGregor , McDuff , MacBeth , and Prince Charlie . Today many tartanware are collected in England and Scotland.
Tartan in mode
In the Victorian and Edwardian era, tartan-clad outfits are featured in fashion catalogs. At that time, tartan has shifted from most components of menswear to become an important part of women's fashion. Because of its relationship with the aristocracy and the British military, tartan developed self-esteem and exclusivity. Therefore, tartan has made a reappearance in the fashion world several times. For example, tartan makes a revival in its use in punk mode. In the late 1970s, punk music was a way of young people in the British Isles to voice their dissatisfaction with the ruling class. The unorthodox use of tartan, which has long been associated with authority and virility, is then seen as an expression of dissatisfaction with modern society. In this way, tartan, which is worn unusually, becomes an anti-establishment symbol.
Tartan Registration
Depending on how the "different tartan" is defined, it is estimated there are about 3,500 to 7,000 different tartan, with about 150 new designs created each year. With four ways of presenting colors in tartan - "modern", "ancient", "weathered", and "muffled" colors - there are about 14,000 variations of tartan known to choose from. The 7,000 figure above includes many of these variations that count as if they were a different tartan.
Until the end of the 20th century, instead of official tartan registration, several independent organizations located in Scotland, Canada, and the United States documented and recorded tartans. In the 1960s, Scottish society called the Scottish Tartans Society (now dead) was created to record and preserve all known tartan designs. List of communities, List of All Commonly Recognized Tartans ( RAPKT ), contains about 2,700 different tartan designs. The community, however, experienced financial problems around 2000, and folded. Former members of the community then formed two new organizations based in Scotland - the Scottish Tartans Authority (STA) and the Scottish Tartans World Register (STWR). Both communities initially based their database on the RAPKT. The International Tartan Index (ITI) STA database consists of about 3,500 different tartans (with more than 7,000, counting variants), in 2004. The STWR database, Scotland Tartans World Register itself comprises about 3,000 different designs in 2004. Both organizations registered in a Scottish charity and recorded a new tartan (free in case of STS and for fees in case of STWR) on request. The ITI STA is larger, in part, because it has absorbed entries recorded in the TartanArt database previously maintained by the International Association of Joint Studies of Tartan and the Tartan Education and Culture Association (IATS/TECA), based in the United States, and with whom the STA is affiliated directly.
The Scottish Register of Tartans (SRT) is an official Scottish tartan list. The SRT is maintained and administered by the Scottish National Archives (NAS), a Edinburgh based legal entity. The purpose of the Registry is to provide a definitive and accessible resource for promoting and preserving tartans. It also aims to be the definitive source for new tartan registration (which pass the NAS criteria for inclusion). The list itself consists of the existing STA and STWR lists at the time of the SRT launch, and the new registration from February 5, 2009 onwards. On the website a Registered user can register a new tartans (at a cost), search for and request a thread of existing tartans and receive notices of newly registered tartans. One criticism of SRT and NAS management on the matter is its exclusivity, both in cost and criteria, always means that it can not really achieve its objectives of persistence, preservation and open access. The current version of ITI STA, for example, already contains a large number of tartans that do not appear in the SRT, and the chasm will only widen under the current policy.
Tartan etiquette
Since the Victorian era, tartan authorities have declared that there is etiquette for wearing tartan, especially tartan associated with clan or family. The concept of rights for a particular tartan has led to the term tartan universal , or tartan gratis , which describes tartan that can be used by anyone. Such traditional examples are Black Watch , Caledonian , Hunting Stewart , and Jacobite tartans. In the same opinion, some tartan associated with the Royal Family of Britain is claimed by some as "prohibited" for non-royalty. Even so, there is no rule about who can, or can not, wear certain tartan. Note that some modern tartan is protected by trademark law, and trademark owners may, in certain circumstances, prevent others from selling the tartan. The "Burberry Check" of the British fashion house, first designed in the early 1920s, is a well-known tartan that is well known around the world and is an example of a protected tartan.
Many books on Scottish clans include such rules and guidelines. One such opinion is that people who do not have a surname, or surnames claimed to be sept of a clan, should not wear tartans from their mother clan. This opinion was established by the fact that in the Scottish clan system, Lord Lyon stated that membership to the clan technically passed the surname. This means that children who bear the name of their father's family belong to the father's clan (if any), and that children who bear the surname of their mother (her maiden name) belong to their mother's clan (if any). Also, Lord Lyon stated that the tartan clan should only be worn by those who claim to be loyal to the clan's chief. Some clan societies even claim that a particular tartan is the personal property of a chief or tribal chief, and in some cases they allow their clan's "permission" to wear tartans. According to the Scottish Tartan Authority - which is closely tied to the Scottish tartan industry - tartan Balmoral should not be used by anyone who is not part of the Royal Family of England. However, some weavers outside Britain ignore the "old conventions" of the "United Kingdom" family proper for this tartan. The public also claims that non-royals dressed in tartan are treated with "great insults" by the Scottish tartan industry. Generally, a more liberal attitude is taken by people in the tartan sales business, stressing that anyone can wear whatever tartan they like. This "rule" is simply a convention; there is no law on the use of any tartan.
See also
- List of tartan
- List of US tartans states, formally recognized state tartans in the US (created in the 1980s)
- Regional tartans of Canada, officially recognizing tartans from Canadian provinces and territories (created in the 1950s)
- Tartan Army, a popular name for fans of the Scottish football team
- Tartan Day, the day of celebration, in Canada and the US, recognizes the influence of Scottish immigration to these countries
- Tartanry
- Carnegie Mellon University, whose athletic mascot is Scotty the Scottie Dog; their athletic team is known as "The Tartans"
- Vestiarium Scoticum , Victorian forgery that is the source of many tartan clans today
- Sobieski Stuarts
- Flannels
- Plaid (pattern)
- Check (pattern)
- Madras (cloth)
- Argyle (pattern)
Note
Footnote
References
External links
- Scottish Tartans Authority, The only organization dedicated to promoting registered targets
- Scotland's list of Tartan, Scotland's official tartan register
- Clan of the Scottish Highland Clothing Plates from the Metropolitan Museum Art Museum
- Balmoral tartan for the royal family only
Source of the article : Wikipedia
0 Comments